The best DSLR for a beginner professional photographer

Well, the time has come for me to update my digital camera. Coming from 35 mm classical film, all manual settings camera and a Canon G6, the only way I’m going is to buy a DSLR.

While this may seem as a straight forward solution to the fact that I’ve finally reached the capabilities of my trusted Canon G6, there are a lot of factors to consider: my style of photography, the subjects, future needs and most importantly COST.

With limited financial resources, I need to find the best DSLR + lenses that will cover all my needs for at least 1 – 2 years from now on. I also need a system that will allow me to shoot landscapes, nature, macro photos and portraits in studio.

My Canon G6 main specifications look like this:

Body:

  • Max resolution: 3072 x 2304 pixels
  • ISO rating: 50, 100, 200, 400
  • Auto focus type: TTL, 9-point, FlexiZone
  • Min shutter: 15 sec
  • Max shutter: 1/2000 sec
  • Storage types: Compact Flash (Type I or II)

Lens

  • Aperture range: F2.0 - F3.0 / F8
  • Zoom wide (W): 35 mm equivalent
  • Zoom tele (T): 140 mm equivalent
  • Normal focus range: 50 cm
  • Macro focus range: wide 5 cm / tele 15 cm

Taking this camera to its limits in the field and also in a small studio, I’ve discovered that I really need:

Body:

  • Max resolution: at least 10 megapixels (12 megapixels would be ideally)
  • ISO rating: 100, 200, 400
  • Auto focus (fast, but not very fast, I “shoot” mostly static subjects)
  • Min shutter: 15 sec (more would be better)
  • Max shutter: 1/2000 sec

Lens(es):

  • Wide: at least 28 mm equivalent (I really need it for buildings and landscapes)
  • Normal + portrait: 50 – 80 mm equivalent, as good as can be
  • Macro: 100-150 mm equivalent, the best possible for small objects (like fruits, vegetables, etc)

After 2 months of reading all possible camera and lenses reviews, here are my conclusions, hopefully you’ll find them useful if you’re looking for the best digital system that your limited financial resources can buy:

1. ALWAYS start with the lenses, the DSLR is as good as the lenses you put on it.
2. ANY DSLR is far better in terms of its capabilities than you can use (as a beginner, of course), YOU are the one who is supposed to take those capabilities to their limits.
3. Except for differences in style of photography, DO NOT choose your camera based on a brand preference (I obviously prefer CANON, but I’ve found quite a few reasons that would make me buy a Nikon).

With cost in mind, I’ve limited my “preferences” to two cameras: Nikon D80 and Canon 400D (Rebel XTI) - I think that both cameras would be more than enough for what I want to do with them, it does not matter witch one I buy, is just the matter of lenses that will make the difference.

The thing that I like about these cameras: Canon’s 400D low noise throughout the sensitivity range and EOS Integrated Cleaning System versus Nikon’s D80 bright viewfinder and support for SD and SDHC cards.

The rest of the options, settings, etc. are more or less the same, with 10 megapixels each, a cropped field of view for lenses of 1.6 for Canon 400D and 1.5 for Nikon D80, with the mention that there are a few settings on the Nikon (like customizable automatic sensitivity - ISO) that would make it a better candidate.

The really important factor in deciding what camera to buy is the COST OF THE LENSES:

If I buy the CANON, here are my options:

1.Going really cheap:
a. Landscape, architecture, portrait - kit lens – Canon EF- S 18-55 mm (28 – 90 mm equivalent) F/3.5-F5.6 to F/22
b.Portrait, nature, macro - Tamron AF 55-200mm (90 – 320 mm equivalent) F/4-5.6 Di II LD Macro

Total price = 886 USD
Canon Digital Rebel XTi SLR with EF-S 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 Zoom Lens = 707 USD
Tamron 55 - 200mm F/4.0-5.6 DI-II LD Macro = 179 USD

2. Going for far better lenses:
a. Landscape, architecture, portrait - Canon EF-S 17-55mm (27 – 90 mm equivalent) F/2.8 IS USM
b. Portrait, nature - Canon EF 70-300mm (112 - 480mm equivalent) F/4-5.6 IS USM
c. Specialized macro lens - Tokina AF 100mm (160 mm equivalent) F/2.8 Macro 1:1 AT-XM100 Pro D

Total price = 2560 USD
Canon Digital Rebel XTi SLR = 620 USD
Canon EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM = 1000 USD
Canon EF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 IS USM = 540 USD
Tokina AF 100mm F/2.8 Macro 1:1 AT-XM100 Pro D = 400 USD

3. A compromise:
a. Landscape, architecture, portrait - Canon EF-S 17-55mm (27 – 90 mm equivalent) F/2.8 IS USM
b. Nature, macro - Tamron 70-300mm (112 - 480mm equivalent) F/4-F5.6 Di LD 1:2 Macro

Total price = 1790 USD
Canon Digital Rebel XTi SLR = 620 USD
Canon EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM = 1000 USD
Tamron 70-300mm F/4-F5.6 Di LD 1:2 Macro = 170 USD

If I buy the NIKON, here are my options:

1. Going for a kit + macro:
a. Landscape, architecture, portrait, nature - kit lens – Nikon 18 - 135mm (27 – 202mm equivalent) F/3.5-F5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX
b. Nature, macro - Tamron 70-300mm (105 - 450mm equivalent) F/4-F5.6 Di LD 1:2 Macro

Total price = 1320 USD
Nikon D80 Digital SLR Camera with 18-135 F/3.5-F5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX = 1150 USD
Tamron 70-300mm (105 - 450mm equivalent) F/4-F5.6 Di LD 1:2 Macro = 170 USD

2. A better deal (despite of the higher price):
a. Nikon 18mm - 200mm (27 – 300mm equivalent) F/3.5-F5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR with macro capabilities

Total price = 1600 USD
Nikon D80 Digital SLR Camera Body = 850 USD
Nikon 18mm - 200mm F/3.5-F5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR = 750 USD

As a conclusion, I need to decide what configuration suits my needs better:

CANON
Total price = 1790 USD
Canon Digital Rebel XTi SLR = 620 USD
Canon EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM = 1000 USD
Tamron 70-300mm F/4-F5.6 Di LD 1:2 Macro = 170 USD

NIKON
Total price = 1600 USD
Nikon D80 Digital SLR Camera Body = 850 USD
Nikon 18mm - 200mm F/3.5-F5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR = 750 USD

CANON system advantages:

  1. Zoom range 28 – 480mm equivalent
  2. Superb image quality from the Canon EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8 lens
  3. Better macro
  4. EOS Integrated Cleaning System
  5. Low noise throughout the sensitivity range

CANON system disadvantages:

  1. No image stabilization for the Tamron lens
  2. Slightly higher price

NIKON system advantages:

  1. A single lens – great versatility
  2. Zoom range 28 – 300mm equivalent - Vibration Reduction throughout the zoom range
  3. Minimum focus range: 0.5m (1.6 ft.)
  4. Great “user experience”

NIKON system disadvantages:

  1. Barrel distortion at 17mm
  2. Zoom range to 300mm (compared to 480mm)

So, considering the image quality, the EOS Integrated Cleaning System and the 400D low noise throughout the sensitivity range, I’m going for the CANON system.

Disclaimer:
Conclusion / recommendation / ratings are based on the opinions of the author, which are provided for use “as is” and without warranty of any kind, Canon, Nikon, Tamron, Tokina are trademarks belonging to their respective owners.

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5 Responses to “The best DSLR for a beginner professional photographer”

  • PaulM Says:
    November 30th, 2007 at 8:26 am

    I too was thinking of the 400D against the D80, as oppose to the D40X.
    Despite lots of things in favour of the D40X and a good deal on the D80, I’ve gone for the Canon. I got dust on the sensor on my Sony CyberShot. If that can happen, anything can!
    Any opinions on flashguns?

  • james Says:
    January 11th, 2008 at 7:57 am

    I just wanted to leave another option,for those that are looking for an entry level DLSR. For the most bang for your buck,your going to want to research the Olympus E510. It costs less than the two mentioned above, and has as many features and more. I personally don’t think you’ll be disapointed.

  • Tom Says:
    February 16th, 2008 at 6:23 pm

    Beginner pro sounds alot like me; I also came up on an all-manual camera, in my case, the Asahi-Pentax k1000 (which took GREAT pictures), and decided on a Sony DSC-V3 over the G6 for a number of reasons, related closely to personal preference. Among other things, it was nice to have a CF slot for semi-permanent backup on-board memory, with a memory stick slot to transfer pics to view on my PSP.

    ‘ DO NOT choose your camera based on a brand preference’ Taking this beyond the usual CaNikon exclusitivity, I would not hesitate in putting a vote for Pentax or Sony (such as the Alpha A700) as well. With anti-shake, weather-resist mag alloy hull, dual memory, and a big CMOS sensor, it certainly fits the bill for me. I decided I needed these lenses for now:

    A700: 1400 USD
    50-150mm f2.8 (Sigma A-mount)- indoor action 820 USD
    16-80mm f3.5 (Zeiss for Sony)- general zoom 700 USD
    50mm f1.4 (like the K1000 kit lens)- low light 350 USD

    I concede the A700’s bulkiness, but at least it’s light enough…the total price is under $3300 USD, a bit above beginner pro’s high option, but since you have to live with the body you choose…

  • Art Says:
    March 30th, 2008 at 2:10 pm

    One thing that can be very misleading for people coming to DSLR ( and a Lot of writers innocnetly do this) from 35 mm are statements like a zoom range of 17-300mm in 35mm in digital will be a “Zoom range 28 – 480mm equivalent”. This implies to people that you get the “magnification” or “reach” of 28-480mm. You don’t. You get the same “reach” of a 17-300mm in 35mm, but you only get the narrower field of view that would be what you’d get equivalent to 28-480mm in 35 mm. In other words, to get the same image frame you’d get at 200mm in 35mm format, you’d have to back the zoom out to 125mm if the lens was used on a digital camera with a 1.6x sensor. Try it yourself, by taking a good 35mm zoom lens and select a subject. Then, without changing the zoom setting, but it on a digital camera and compose on the same subject. The subject in the will be the same “size” and “distance”, but a good portion of the picture you framed will be gone. This will also be true with a “digital” lens on a DSLR compared with a regular lens at the same setting on a 35mm.

    This is not unique to any brand of DSLR, and can be quite disconcerting when first encountered, especial with fixed focal length lenses. It’s just something you have to get used to and kept in mind in composing if you shoot both digital and film. There are “full frame” DSLRs with larger 35mm equivalent sensors, but they are very expensive.

    Long story short it would be clearer to people moving to DSLR to describe the range as “!7-300mm with a field of view equivalent to 28-480mm”. Thanks.

  • Deborah Dowdy Says:
    April 13th, 2008 at 7:50 pm

    I chose the canon rebel xti with a 70-300 zoom lens (Quantaray) came with awsome macro! Received 18-55 regular lens with it. I heard the new 18-55 canon lens with i/s is much better. I still need a wide angle lens. xti is not good in low light unless you have at least a 600.00 lens. Just to let you know unless you choose to do night or sunrise shots.

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